An Adult Conversation About the Future of the Red River Gorge
I have just come back from a 2 week trip to the Red. Let me first start off by saying, I was there alone, and was unable to find a steady partner. It seemed like whenever I found someone to climb with,...
View ArticleCrag Cooking – Say NO to Clif Bars!
It was around 1 p.m. and the hordes of shirtless gym rats were at the crag rummaging through their alpine packs, dumping out first-aid kits and shiny new quick draws, desperately searching for that...
View ArticleCan we trust “sponsored” rock climbers?
How do we know if Adam Ondra has actually climbed 5.15c? Did Ueli Steck really solo Annapurna’s West face? Is Daniel Woods’ sit-start of The Ice Knife really V15? We as climbers like to believe there...
View ArticleHow to project a route.
There’s one question that many of my clients keep asking me: How did you climb that route so well? The answer is simple… I’ve climbed it about a hundred times! When we watch videos of Adam Ondra...
View ArticleHow to tell your Mom you rock climb.
If you’re like me, you’ve more often than not had to explain to “non-climbers” what rock climbing really is. People frequently have an image in their minds, and it roughly looks like this: We call...
View ArticleDo ‘First Ascentionists’ have any rights?
Look at this photo carefully….See anything special? Is there anything ‘mythical’ about it? Did the men in this photo have super natural powers that allowed them to effortlessly float up sketchy routes...
View ArticleReel Rock Tour 9 – An honest review of ‘Valley Uprising’.
I have talked extensively about the great “Stone Masters” from Yosemite’s past on here before; often not favourably. However, when Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer invited me to the Reel Rock 9: Valley...
View ArticleMy Interview on ‘The Enormocast’!
I had spent the last 4 weeks bolting new sport routes in Indian Creek, Utah, where I was fortunate enough to run into climber and podcasteur, Chris Kalous. Chris has been the voice of climbing on the...
View ArticleFame! …and rock climbing…..
In the future, everybody will be world famous for fifteen minutes. Presently, I scramble to find deeper meaning in my new found notoriety. It began with the most noble of intentions, this humble blog,...
View ArticleThe Future of Climbing
The first rule of rock climbing is, you do not talk about rock climbing. The second rule of rock climbing is, you DO NOT talk about rock climbing! Each and every one of you is guilty of breaking these...
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